Medieval boards are commonly of oak, 17th-century ones elm, and those from the 18th century onwards pine or fir. Generally, the wider a floorboard, the older it is. Butt, dowelled or tongue-and-groove joints were used historically, and fixings might comprise oak pegs instead of nails.

Replacing old floorboards unnecessarily harms a buildings’s character. Try, therefore, to retain them (including any sand pugging, shells, or other historic insulating or fireproofing material underneath).

Only take floorboards up if there is little alternative. When new pipes or cables are installed, employ a competent carpenter to lift boards instead of leaving this to plumbers or electricians. Number boards as they are lifted to assist re-laying in their exact previous positions.

Where regular access to service runs is required, floorboards can be discreetly screwed down rather than nailed. This also avoids vibration from nailing above fragile ceilings. The use of timber or beeswax plugs reduces the visual impact of screws.

Squeaks can sometimes be silenced by squirting powdered graphite or talcum powder between boards that rub together, replacing missing or incorrect nails with cut flat floorboard nails, or using a nail punch to drive loose nails down. In other cases, it may be necessary to replace some of the nails with screws.

Slips of matching timber, papier mâché or beeswax are useful for filling gaps between boards.

Sanding old floorboards is generally unwise. Not only will you lose the original surface and possibly expose unsightly beetle runs but the faces of boards may become destabilised and in some cases the reduction in their thickness leaves boards unable to carry loads. Chemical methods of removing dark stains or paint can give good results without significant damage.

In exceptional circumstances, sanding might be justified. If you do sand, it should be by hand or, if an electrical sander is used, entrusted to experienced hands.